Hop onto the Runway

Walking down the street, you will undoubtedly spot oversized jackets, baggy jeans, and statement sneakers—key components of modern street style that define Gen-Z fashion. The origins of street style, however, are far beyond Gen Z: they lie within hip-hop culture and the fashions of hip-hop artists.

Hip-hop began in the Bronx, blending sport and street wear. Accessible clothing was worn like statement pieces—exaggerating baggy silhouettes, heavy chains, flashy sneakers, and unique baseball caps. Clothes were worn with an attitude that emphasized individuality, allowing Hip-hop artists to push the traditional boundaries of fashion, introduce luxury logos, and find new, unconventional ways to wear high-end brands. Dapper Dan, a Harlem-based designer, was the first to blend high fashion with hip-hop aesthetics. He drew inspiration from Louis Vuitton and Gucci’s leather bags and began making leather garments, with designs that pushed the boundaries of conventional fashion norms. The trademark of his work became his shameless and bold appropriation of luxury fashion house logos. Rather than “knock-offs,” he referred to his designs as “knock-ups.”

Dapper Dan's Boutique, open 24/7, was a hot spot for Harlem fashion, with clients waiting outside late at night after clubbing for a slim chance to get in. Eventually, Dan’s work caught the attention of celebrity LL Cool J, first styling him in 1985. With that, Dapper Dan’s position in hip-hop fashion was secured. He went on to work with countless artists such as Salt-N-Pepa, The Fat Boys, Bobby Brown, and more, customizing garments that were made exclusively for them. Although the logos and branding used may not have been original, Dapper Dan’s designs were. Take Eric B. & Rakim, for example; the custom Gucci bomber jackets worn on the cover of their album Follow the Leader are the quintessential example of Dan’s cutting-edge appropriation of luxury logos. He not only blended luxury wear with hip-hop aesthetics, but also traditional African textiles and patterns, as seen in his 1988 designs worn by Salt-N-Pepa and DJ Spinderella. Dapper Dan’s work marked a turning point in hip-hop fashion—he led the golden age of hip-hop, inspired new music, cultivated personal relationships with artists, and styled them throughout the peak of their careers.

As fashion and hip-hop intertwined, designers began to prioritize collaborations with artists. Take the baggy jeans we all know and love today. Originally popularized through Karl Kani's campaign with Tupac Shakur, the artist’s endorsement helped elevate the brand and solidify its roots in hip-hop fashion. This relationship, however, goes beyond designers and taps into brands. Today, when we think of classic American brands—the iconic red, white, and blue— Tommy Hilfiger comes to mind. What not everyone realizes is that the iconic brand we all know and love owes its rise and success to Snoop Dogg and hip-hop. The brand was first name-dropped in Grand Puba and Mary J. Blige’s record What’s the 411, shortly before Snoop Dogg appeared on SNL in an oversized Tommy long-sleeve. The shirt sold out immediately, and suddenly Tommy Hilfiger became a household name. The brand embraced its relationship with hip-hop and made Aaliyah, a 2000s R&B household name, a model, spokesperson, and brand ambassador. A fashion icon, Aaliyah redefined the Tommy look by blending feminine and traditionally tomboy silhouettes and styles. Her purposeful blend of authenticity and commercial visibility reshaped the industry and the future of the Tommy Hilfiger brand. Her legacy lives on not only through Tommy Hilfiger but in the intersection of feminine and masculine styles we now see walking down the street.

The golden age of hip-hop was the turning point for hip-hop fashion, but the genre’s relevance in fashion didn’t merely end in the 90s. Today, the influence of rap artists and hip-hop fashion is seen in every piece of streetwear. Take Virgil Abloh, who bridged the gap between high fashion and street style by bringing streetwear to the runway and collaborating with major fashion houses. Working at the forefront of rap and fashion as the creative director of Kanye West’s company, Donda, Virgil Abloh seamlessly intertwined high fashion and sound. Abloh changed the landscape of high fashion by incorporating aspects of street style into haute couture. His debut collection and show for LV, Color Theory, made fashion history; the show was imaginative and transformative, incorporating accessories as garments, using prismatic colors, and juxtaposing structured silhouettes with vibrant colors. Featuring Kid Cudi, Playboi Carti, and Dev Hynes, Abloh’s debut celebrated the relationship between music and fashion.

The intersection of hip-hop, R&B, and fashion inspired the commercialization of streetwear. Through partnerships and collaborations with artists, the streetwear industry grew immensely and is now estimated at over $270 billion. The music and fashion industries remain intertwined with new clothing lines by artists, continuing campaigns, and artists at the forefront of fashion houses, such as Pharrell Williams and ASAP Rocky, as the newly appointed creative directors of Louis Vuitton and Ray-Ban, respectively. Hip-hop will forever be at the roots of streetwear and will continue to serve as inspiration and influence in all sectors of fashion.